Retiro (Buenos Aires) Travel Guide: Plaza San Martín, Kavanagh & Arroyo Street

View of Plaza San Martín with the iconic Kavanagh Building in the background in Retiro, Buenos Aires.

Retiro is one of the most elegant, fascinating, and historically rich neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Strategically located between Downtown (San Nicolás) and Recoleta, it blends majestic French-inspired palaces, the tree-lined tranquility of Plaza San Martín, cutting-edge art galleries, and the bustling energy of the city's main railway terminal.

In this guide, we break down everything to see, do, and eat in Retiro.

Top Things to See and Do in Retiro

1 - Plaza San Martín

Designed by famed French landscape architect Charles Thays, this is one of the city's most beautiful and stately green spaces. Its paths, shaded by jacaranda and tipa trees, home the General San Martín Monument and the moving Falklands War Memorial (Cenotafio a los Caídos en Malvinas).

2 - Kavanagh Building (Edificio Kavanagh)

Inaugurated in 1936, this Art Deco skyscraper was once the tallest reinforced concrete structure in Latin America. Declared World Heritage of Modern Architecture, its stepped silhouette overlooking Plaza San Martín is one of the city's most iconic postcards.

Facade of the iconic Kavanagh Building facing Plaza San Martín in Retiro, Buenos Aires.

3 - Stroll Along Arroyo Street & Its Palaces

Widely considered one of the most elegant and Parisian streets in Buenos Aires. Its curved layout is lined with art galleries, antique shops, embassies, and aristocratic mansions such as Palacio Fernández Anchorena (current Ministry of Foreign Affairs) and Palacio Paz (Military Circle).

🏛️ Want to explore the "Paris of South America"? Check out our Retiro Palaces Walking Tour Guide: step-by-step map, interior access info, opening hours, and ticket prices.

Palacio Fernández Anchorena in Retiro, Buenos Aires.

4 - Monumental Tower (Torre Monumental / English Tower)

Located in Plaza Fuerza Aérea Argentina, right opposite the train station. Donated by the British community in 1916 for the Centennial of the May Revolution, this Neo-Renaissance style clock tower offers an incredible panoramic observation deck on its top floor.

The Monumental Tower (English Tower) in the Retiro neighborhood, Buenos Aires.

5 - Retiro Train Station (Mitre Line)

A masterpiece of Edwardian railway architecture, built in Great Britain and opened in 1915. Its grand glass-and-iron structure and majestic central concourse stand as a living testament to Argentina's early-20th-century economic prosperity.

6 - Isaac Fernández Blanco Museum of Spanish-American Art (Palacio Noel)

Set inside a stunning Neocolonial palace surrounded by Andalusian gardens on Suipacha Street. It houses the country's most significant collection of South American colonial art, silverwork, and religious imagery.

Palacio Noel housing the Isaac Fernández Blanco Museum of Spanish-American Art in Retiro, Buenos Aires.

Where to Eat in Retiro: Elegant Cafes, Hidden Bars & Steakhouses

Retiro's culinary scene shines with craft cocktail lounges, European-style bistros, and classic local haunts.

Florería Atlántico (Arroyo 872): Hidden behind a refrigerator door inside a flower shop, this speakeasy has repeatedly been voted among the world's best bars for its immigrant-inspired craft cocktails.
Dadoa / Café Plaza San Martín: Ideal spots along Florida Street or around the plaza for coffee or lunch with park views.
El Esteco (Posadas 1052): A classic, elegant spot to savor traditional Argentine grilled meats near Alvear Avenue.
La Recova (Avenida del Libertador & Suipacha): Tucked beneath the highway overpass lies an exclusive gastronomic hub featuring fine dining restaurants and upscale steakhouses.

Pedestrian walkway and cafes along elegant Arroyo Street in Retiro, Buenos Aires.

Where to Stay in Retiro

An excellent, strategic option for travelers seeking elegance and convenience.

Pros: Proximity to the Florida Street shopping corridor, fantastic public transit connections (Subway Lines C and E, trains, and buses), and walking distance to Recoleta and Downtown.
Cons: The immediate area around the train stations can get quite crowded during peak rush hours.

How to Get to Retiro from Key Arrival Points

Retiro is Buenos Aires' largest transportation hub:

From Ezeiza International Airport (EZE)

Official Taxis and Remises (INSIDE THE TERMINAL): The safest and most direct option. Book exclusively at official counters inside the arrivals hall (Taxi Ezeiza or authorized cars).
Tienda León (Express Bus): Offers direct charter bus services linking Ezeiza Airport with its own terminal right in the heart of Retiro.

From Aeroparque Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP)

Taxi / Uber: A quick 10-to-15-minute drive along the coastal avenue.
Public Bus: Bus lines 33, 45, and 160 connect Aeroparque directly to Plaza San Martín and Retiro.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can you go up the Monumental Tower?

Yes, the Monumental Tower is open to the public and features an elevator that takes visitors to an observation deck on the sixth floor, offering sweeping views over Retiro and the port.

Is Plaza San Martín safe to walk around?

Yes, during daylight hours, Plaza San Martín, Arroyo Street, and the Florida pedestrian street are very safe and busy with locals and tourists. As with any major transit hub, keep an eye on belongings near the train station area.

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