Palermo (Buenos Aires) Travel Guide: Soho, Hollywood, Parks & Dining
The largest, greenest, and most dynamic neighborhood in Buenos Aires. A perfect mix of independent design, fine dining, massive parks, and endless nightlife.
Palermo (Buenos Aires) Travel Guide: Soho, Hollywood, Parks & Dining
The largest, greenest, and most dynamic neighborhood in Buenos Aires. A perfect mix of independent design, fine dining, massive parks, and endless nightlife.
Palermo is the largest, greenest, and most eclectic neighborhood in Buenos Aires. While officially a single district, locals divide it into distinct sub-neighborhoods with strong identities: Palermo Soho (fashion, design, and coffee shops), Palermo Hollywood (media studios, top dining, and bars), Palermo Chico / Barrio Parque (embassies and luxury mansions), and Palermo Viejo (cobblestone streets and historic architecture).
Whether you want to stroll through expansive parks, taste world-class Argentine steaks, or enjoy vibrant nightlife, this guide covers everything you need to know about Palermo.
Understanding Palermo: The Sub-Neighborhoods
Palermo Soho
Roughly bounded by Scalabrini Ortiz, Córdoba, Juan B. Justo, and Santa Fe avenues. Centered around Plaza Serrano (Plaza Cortázar) and Plaza Armenia, this is the main tourist hub—filled with graffiti-covered alleys, independent designer boutiques, and specialty coffee spots.
Palermo Hollywood
Located north of Juan B. Justo Avenue (between Córdoba, Santa Fe, and Dorrego). It earned its name from the film and TV production studios based here. Today, it is the city's top culinary district, famous for chef-driven restaurants, hidden speakeasies, and craft beer bars.
Palermo Chico (Barrio Parque)
Located between Av. del Libertador, Salguero, Alcorta, and Tagle. One of the most exclusive areas in Buenos Aires, featuring French-style mansions, foreign embassies, and peaceful tree-lined streets.
Top Things to See and Do in Palermo
1 - Palermo Parks & The Rose Garden (El Rosedal)
The main green lung of Buenos Aires (Parque Tres de Febrero). A massive green space featuring lakes with pedal boats, jogging paths, and bike trails.
- The Rose Garden (El Rosedal): A beautiful park with over 18,000 rose bushes, a Greek bridge, a lake, and the Poets' Walk. Free entry.
2 - Plaza Serrano & Plaza Armenia (The Heart of Soho)
The two most iconic squares in Palermo Soho. On weekends, they host open-air artisan and independent design markets. The surrounding streets (such as Honduras, Serrano, and Gurruchaga) are packed with specialty cafes, outdoor bars, and street art murals perfect for photography.
3 - Carlos Thays Botanical Garden
Located on Av. Santa Fe (opposite Plaza Italia), this tranquil haven was designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays. It features over 5,000 plant species, artistic sculptures, and beautiful 19th-century glass-and-iron greenhouses. Free entry.
4 - Japanese Garden (Jardín Japonés)
One of the largest Japanese gardens outside Japan. A peaceful oasis featuring red bridges, Koi ponds, bonsai trees, a traditional tea house, and a sushi restaurant.
- Tip: Entrance fee applies; purchase tickets online in advance to skip weekend lines.
5 - Paseo de la Infanta (Los Arcos de Palermo)
Set beneath the arches of the San Martín railway viaduct (at Av. del Libertador and Freyre), this open-air food hub is surrounded by greenery. It’s the perfect place for an afternoon coffee, a gourmet burger, or a craft beer right by the park.
6 - MALBA (Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires)
Located on the border of Palermo Chico, this is one of South America's premier modern art museums. It houses iconic masterworks by Frida Kahlo, Tarsila do Amaral, Diego Rivera, and Antonio Berni.
- Discount: Wednesdays offer 50% off admission (free for students and seniors).
7 - Galileo Galilei Planetarium
An iconic UFO-shaped dome surrounded by parkland. Lit up with colorful LEDs at night, it offers interactive space shows and astronomy exhibits during the day.
8 - Buenos Aires Ecopark
Located right by Plaza Italia on the site of the former city zoo, this free park focuses on environmental conservation. You can spot free-roaming wildlife (such as maras and peacocks) among native plants and restored historic buildings.
Where to Eat in Palermo: Steakhouses & Coffee Shops
Palermo is the culinary heart of Buenos Aires. Essential stops include:
- Iconic Parrillas (Steakhouses):
- Don Julio (ranked among the world's best restaurants; requires booking months in advance).
- La Cabrera (famous for prime cuts served with unique mini side dishes).
- El Preferido de Palermo (a historic pink-walled taverna famous for its milanesas and charcuterie).
- Specialty Coffee: Cuervo Café, Full City Coffee House, LAB Tostadores, and Lattente.
- Pizza & Gelato: Atte. Pizzeria Napoletana, Rapa Nui (try the Franui or pistachio gelato), and Lucciano's.
Palermo Nightlife: Bars & Speakeasies
Palermo comes alive after dark with options ranging from rooftop lounges to themed cocktail bars:
- Hidden Speakeasies: Uptown (styled like a NYC subway station), JW Bradley (featuring an antique train entrance), and Nicky Harrison (hidden behind a sushi restaurant).
- Bars & Pubs: The area surrounding Plaza Serrano and Honduras, Fitz Roy, and Nicaragua streets features hundreds of outdoor drinking spots.
Where to Stay in Palermo
Palermo is widely considered the best neighborhood to stay in Buenos Aires for first-time visitors due to its safety, walkability, and abundance of boutique hotels.
- Palermo Soho: Best if you want to be within walking distance of shops, cafes, and daytime street life.
- Palermo Hollywood: Best for foodies who want immediate access to top dinner spots and nightlife.
- Palermo Chico / Botanico: Quiet, upscale residential areas ideal for a peaceful stay.
How to Get to Palermo from Key Arrival Points
Palermo is well connected to the rest of the city and major transit hubs. Here are the best ways to get there depending on where you arrive:
From Ezeiza International Airport (EZE)
Located about 30 km (18 miles) southwest of the city.
- Official Taxis and Remises (INSIDE THE TERMINAL): The safest and most straightforward option. Book exclusively at the official counters inside the arrivals hall (such as Taxi Ezeiza or authorized private cars) before stepping outside. You will pay a fixed fare upfront.
⚠️ Key Tip: Avoid taking street taxis or accepting offers from drivers soliciting rides verbally inside the terminal. They do not use fixed rates and often overcharge tourists.
- Rideshare Apps (Uber / Cabify): Work very well and offer fixed upfront pricing in the app. The pickup point is usually in the parking area.
- Public Bus (Line 8 - Semi-Express Service): The most budget-friendly option. Takes the highway directly to Plaza de Mayo, where you can connect to Subway Line D (Catedral station to Plaza Italia) or take a short Uber to Palermo.
- Tienda León Shuttle Bus: Express coach service to the Puerto Madero terminal. From there, you can take an Uber or the 152 bus to Palermo.
From Aeroparque Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP)
Located right on the eastern edge of Palermo, by the river.
- Official Taxi / Remís or Rideshare Apps: Since it is so close, the drive takes only 10 to 20 minutes. For taxis, join the official line at the airport's designated taxi kiosks. Avoid unmetered taxis outside.
- Public Bus: Bus lines 160, 33, and 45 stop outside the airport. Line 160 takes you directly to Plaza Italia, the Botanical Garden, and main avenues in Palermo.
- Walking: If you travel light and are heading to Palermo Chico or the Planetarium area, you can easily walk across the parks.
From Retiro Bus Terminal
Where long-distance buses and several train lines arrive.
- Subway (Subte): Take Line C from Retiro to Diagonal Norte, make the underground pedestrian transfer to Line D (at 9 de Julio station), and ride directly towards Congreso de Tucumán to stations like Plaza Italia, Palermo, or Scalabrini Ortiz.
- Public Bus: Bus line 152 takes you directly from Retiro along Av. Santa Fe into Palermo for a very low fare.
- Taxi / Uber: A quick 15-to-20-minute ride along Av. del Libertador. (Uber is recommended so you know the price upfront.)
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is Palermo safe to walk around at night?
Yes, Palermo (especially Soho and Hollywood) is one of the safest areas in Buenos Aires due to heavy foot traffic, locals, and tourists out late into the night. As in any major city, keep your personal belongings in sight when sitting outdoors.
How do I get to Palermo from Downtown / Obelisco?
- Subway (Subte): Line D (Green Line) runs right through Palermo. Key stations include Plaza Italia, Palermo (connected to the San Martín train line), and Scalabrini Ortiz.
- Buses (Colectivos): Bus lines 15, 29, 39, 55, 60, 152, and 160 drop you off at major points throughout the neighborhood.
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Palermo Soho
Roughly bounded by Scalabrini Ortiz, Córdoba, Juan B. Justo, and Santa Fe avenues. Centered around Plaza Serrano (Plaza Cortázar) and Plaza Armenia, this is the main tourist hub—filled with graffiti-covered alleys, independent designer boutiques, and specialty coffee spots.
Palermo Hollywood
Located north of Juan B. Justo Avenue (between Córdoba, Santa Fe, and Dorrego). It earned its name from the film and TV production studios based here. Today, it is the city's top culinary district, famous for chef-driven restaurants, hidden speakeasies, and craft beer bars.
Palermo Chico (Barrio Parque)
Located between Av. del Libertador, Salguero, Alcorta, and Tagle. One of the most exclusive areas in Buenos Aires, featuring French-style mansions, foreign embassies, and peaceful tree-lined streets.
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1 - Palermo Parks & The Rose Garden (El Rosedal)
The main green lung of Buenos Aires (Parque Tres de Febrero). A massive green space featuring lakes with pedal boats, jogging paths, and bike trails.
- The Rose Garden (El Rosedal): A beautiful park with over 18,000 rose bushes, a Greek bridge, a lake, and the Poets' Walk. Free entry.
2 - Plaza Serrano & Plaza Armenia (The Heart of Soho)
The two most iconic squares in Palermo Soho. On weekends, they host open-air artisan and independent design markets. The surrounding streets (such as Honduras, Serrano, and Gurruchaga) are packed with specialty cafes, outdoor bars, and street art murals perfect for photography.
3 - Carlos Thays Botanical Garden
Located on Av. Santa Fe (opposite Plaza Italia), this tranquil haven was designed by French landscape architect Carlos Thays. It features over 5,000 plant species, artistic sculptures, and beautiful 19th-century glass-and-iron greenhouses. Free entry.
4 - Japanese Garden (Jardín Japonés)
One of the largest Japanese gardens outside Japan. A peaceful oasis featuring red bridges, Koi ponds, bonsai trees, a traditional tea house, and a sushi restaurant.
- Tip: Entrance fee applies; purchase tickets online in advance to skip weekend lines.
5 - Paseo de la Infanta (Los Arcos de Palermo)
Set beneath the arches of the San Martín railway viaduct (at Av. del Libertador and Freyre), this open-air food hub is surrounded by greenery. It’s the perfect place for an afternoon coffee, a gourmet burger, or a craft beer right by the park.
6 - MALBA (Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires)
Located on the border of Palermo Chico, this is one of South America's premier modern art museums. It houses iconic masterworks by Frida Kahlo, Tarsila do Amaral, Diego Rivera, and Antonio Berni.
- Discount: Wednesdays offer 50% off admission (free for students and seniors).
7 - Galileo Galilei Planetarium
An iconic UFO-shaped dome surrounded by parkland. Lit up with colorful LEDs at night, it offers interactive space shows and astronomy exhibits during the day.
8 - Buenos Aires Ecopark
Located right by Plaza Italia on the site of the former city zoo, this free park focuses on environmental conservation. You can spot free-roaming wildlife (such as maras and peacocks) among native plants and restored historic buildings.
Palermo is the culinary heart of Buenos Aires. Essential stops include:
- Iconic Parrillas (Steakhouses):
- Don Julio (ranked among the world's best restaurants; requires booking months in advance).
- La Cabrera (famous for prime cuts served with unique mini side dishes).
- El Preferido de Palermo (a historic pink-walled taverna famous for its milanesas and charcuterie).
- Specialty Coffee: Cuervo Café, Full City Coffee House, LAB Tostadores, and Lattente.
- Pizza & Gelato: Atte. Pizzeria Napoletana, Rapa Nui (try the Franui or pistachio gelato), and Lucciano's.
Palermo comes alive after dark with options ranging from rooftop lounges to themed cocktail bars:
- Hidden Speakeasies: Uptown (styled like a NYC subway station), JW Bradley (featuring an antique train entrance), and Nicky Harrison (hidden behind a sushi restaurant).
- Bars & Pubs: The area surrounding Plaza Serrano and Honduras, Fitz Roy, and Nicaragua streets features hundreds of outdoor drinking spots.
Palermo is widely considered the best neighborhood to stay in Buenos Aires for first-time visitors due to its safety, walkability, and abundance of boutique hotels.
- Palermo Soho: Best if you want to be within walking distance of shops, cafes, and daytime street life.
- Palermo Hollywood: Best for foodies who want immediate access to top dinner spots and nightlife.
- Palermo Chico / Botanico: Quiet, upscale residential areas ideal for a peaceful stay.
Palermo is well connected to the rest of the city and major transit hubs. Here are the best ways to get there depending on where you arrive:
From Ezeiza International Airport (EZE)
Located about 30 km (18 miles) southwest of the city.
- Official Taxis and Remises (INSIDE THE TERMINAL): The safest and most straightforward option. Book exclusively at the official counters inside the arrivals hall (such as Taxi Ezeiza or authorized private cars) before stepping outside. You will pay a fixed fare upfront.
⚠️ Key Tip: Avoid taking street taxis or accepting offers from drivers soliciting rides verbally inside the terminal. They do not use fixed rates and often overcharge tourists.
- Rideshare Apps (Uber / Cabify): Work very well and offer fixed upfront pricing in the app. The pickup point is usually in the parking area.
- Public Bus (Line 8 - Semi-Express Service): The most budget-friendly option. Takes the highway directly to Plaza de Mayo, where you can connect to Subway Line D (Catedral station to Plaza Italia) or take a short Uber to Palermo.
- Tienda León Shuttle Bus: Express coach service to the Puerto Madero terminal. From there, you can take an Uber or the 152 bus to Palermo.
From Aeroparque Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP)
Located right on the eastern edge of Palermo, by the river.
- Official Taxi / Remís or Rideshare Apps: Since it is so close, the drive takes only 10 to 20 minutes. For taxis, join the official line at the airport's designated taxi kiosks. Avoid unmetered taxis outside.
- Public Bus: Bus lines 160, 33, and 45 stop outside the airport. Line 160 takes you directly to Plaza Italia, the Botanical Garden, and main avenues in Palermo.
- Walking: If you travel light and are heading to Palermo Chico or the Planetarium area, you can easily walk across the parks.
From Retiro Bus Terminal
Where long-distance buses and several train lines arrive.
- Subway (Subte): Take Line C from Retiro to Diagonal Norte, make the underground pedestrian transfer to Line D (at 9 de Julio station), and ride directly towards Congreso de Tucumán to stations like Plaza Italia, Palermo, or Scalabrini Ortiz.
- Public Bus: Bus line 152 takes you directly from Retiro along Av. Santa Fe into Palermo for a very low fare.
- Taxi / Uber: A quick 15-to-20-minute ride along Av. del Libertador. (Uber is recommended so you know the price upfront.)
Is Palermo safe to walk around at night?
Yes, Palermo (especially Soho and Hollywood) is one of the safest areas in Buenos Aires due to heavy foot traffic, locals, and tourists out late into the night. As in any major city, keep your personal belongings in sight when sitting outdoors.
How do I get to Palermo from Downtown / Obelisco?
- Subway (Subte): Line D (Green Line) runs right through Palermo. Key stations include Plaza Italia, Palermo (connected to the San Martín train line), and Scalabrini Ortiz.
- Buses (Colectivos): Bus lines 15, 29, 39, 55, 60, 152, and 160 drop you off at major points throughout the neighborhood.
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