Grassmarket Guide in Edinburgh: History, What to See, and Best Pubs

Panorámica view of Grassmarket square with its colorful shop and pub facades, in Edinburgh, Scotland.

Strolling through Grassmarket today is a true delight: people enjoying a drink outdoors, colorful facades that resemble a small village, and a steady stream of travelers. But if we were to take a trip back in time to the 17th century, this very place would smell of manure, livestock, and... death.

Established in the 14th century as an agricultural and livestock market (hence its name, "grass market"), Grassmarket also became the location where the city executed its criminals, witches, and political dissidents before drunken crowds who treated it as a weekend spectacle.

What to See and Do in Grassmarket (2026)

Grassmarket is not just a place to pass through; it is a spot to sit back and linger for a while. Make sure you don't miss these key highlights during your visit:

1. The Covenanters' Memorial

At the eastern end of the square, a small fenced stone circle on the ground marks the exact spot where the public gallows used to stand. A plaque commemorates the more than 100 Covenanters (Scottish Presbyterians) who were executed here in the 17th century during the religious conflicts known as "The Killing Time." It is a quiet, highly respectful spot right in the middle of the bustle.

2. Grassmarket Weekly Market

If you are lucky enough to visit on a Saturday, you will find the square packed with local stalls from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM. It is a spectacular street market offering Scottish crafts, vintage clothing, books, and above all, international street food and local organic produce (cheeses, artisanal breads, and Scottish sweets).

3. The Vennel Steps

Right at the southwest corner of Grassmarket, an alleyway features a stone staircase known as The Vennel. If you climb these steps, you will reach one of the city's best hidden viewpoints, where the medieval Flodden Wall perfectly frames the tower of Edinburgh Castle. The ultimate postcard shot!

4. White Hart Inn: The Oldest and Most Haunted Pub

Founded in 1516, the White Hart Inn claims to be the oldest pub in Edinburgh. Historic figures like the national poet Robert Burns once sat at its tables. It is also said that the notorious serial killers Burke and Hare would heavily intoxicate their victims here in 1828 before taking them away to sell their bodies to the medical school. Today, it is famous for its live music and the alleged paranormal phenomena reported by its staff.

The White Hart Inn: pub founded in 1516 located in Grassmarket, Edinburgh, Scotland.

Where to Eat and Drink: The Best Traditional Pubs

Grassmarket is the beating heart of the tavern scene in the Old Town. In addition to the White Hart and Maggie Dickson's, we highly recommend:

The Last Drop: Its name makes a direct reference to the last drink that condemned prisoners were allowed to have inside the tavern before heading to the scaffold, which stood right outside. The interior boasts an incredible rustic aesthetic with gallows ropes hanging as decoration.
The Beehive Inn: Another pub with centuries of history behind it, featuring a hidden terraced backyard ("Beer Garden") that is an absolute gem if you happen to catch a sunny day in Edinburgh.
Mary's Milk Bar: If you are craving something sweet, this is the most famous artisanal ice cream parlor in town. Their uniquely flavored ice creams (such as sea salt chocolate or whisky) change daily, and lines often stretch around the block.

The Incredible Legend of Maggie Dickson: "The Half-Hangit"

If you walk along the north side of the square, you will come across a pub called Maggie Dickson's. Its name pays tribute to the most famous and astonishing legend of Grassmarket.

In 1724, Maggie Dickson, a local fishwife, was sentenced to the gallows in this very square for concealing the pregnancy of an illegitimate child who was born dead. After being hanged and declared dead by doctors, her body was placed in a wooden coffin to be carted back to her hometown.

Midway through the journey, the drivers heard noises coming from inside the box: Maggie was alive and pounding on the lid! Since Scottish law dictated that a person could not be executed twice for the same crime (as surviving was considered the "will of God"), Maggie was set free. She lived for another 40 years and went down in history with the nickname The Half-Hangit (the half-hanged).

El histórico pub Maggie Dickson's en Grassmarket, nombrado en honor a la mujer que sobrevivió a su propia ejecución en la horca. Edimburgo.

Practical Information for Your Visit (2026)

Prices and Access

Cost: Visiting the square and the Saturday market is 100% free.
Recommended Time: Daytime is perfect for strolling around, taking photos of the castle, and exploring independent clothing and antique shops. At night (from 7:00 PM onwards), the atmosphere completely transforms, with live Celtic music echoing out of the pubs.

How to Get to Grassmarket

On foot: It is just a 5-minute walk from the Royal Mile heading down the famous and colorful Victoria Street (the curved street that inspired Harry Potter's Diagon Alley). You can also reach it by crossing over from Greyfriars Kirkyard cemetery.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is Grassmarket safe at night?

Absolutely. Edinburgh is an extremely safe city. Being a pub area, you will see plenty of people partying on weekends, but the vibe is generally very friendly, tourist-friendly, and well-policed.

Can you see the Castle from Grassmarket?

Yes, and it is one of the best perspectives you can find. Being down in the valley, the volcanic rock upon which Edinburgh Castle sits looks massive and imposing right above the heads of passersby.

Are shops open on Sundays?

Most independent boutiques in Grassmarket open Monday through Sunday, though Sundays usually have slightly shorter hours (from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM).

Useful Links to Keep Building Your Scotland Itinerary